Monday, February 4, 2019

Crowson Wines – Johnson City, Texas


It is always exciting to catch a new winery at the beginning of their journey. You can hear the owner’s vision, ambitions, and passion about their mission and plans for their business and see that reflected in their wine.  Crowson Wines opened last April by Henry Crowson.  Though he may seem young and the place is new, his wines reflect that of a 30+ year winemaking veteran. Yes, they are that damn good!  But then, Henry is no stranger to Texas wines.  He “graduated” from customer to employee at William Chris Vineyards a few years ago.  Under Bill Blackmon and Chris Brundrett’s tutelage, he quickly learned the art and science of crafting Texas grapes into top quality wine. One thing that interested Henry was letting the natural process of grapes do the work in creating the wine. That is right, he takes a very minimalist approach to putting “extra stuff” in his wines and likes to work with the fruit as it is.  He picked up on the techniques of using the grapes own natural yeast to do the fermentation and adding no artificial chemicals.  Now don’t get this wrong, it is not easy working this way, but with patience and attention to detail one can yield a high-quality wine.  Henry’s work is proof of that!  To give more of that natural wine appeal, the wines are unfiltered, so you will get the unadulterated peak flavors of the grapes.  Henry started with his own line of wines at William Chris in 2016. After getting accolades, he was off to craft his 2017 vintage and start his own business.  He has produced about 500 cases for 2017 and is looking at 1300 cases for 2018.  He has a nice range of 2017 wines to sample right now, including a “sneak-peak” at a 2018 red.  Texas has become a rising star for Rosé and Henry’s version does not disappoint.  His 2017 Rosé is made from Merlot grapes sourced from Granite Hill Vineyards in the Texas Hill Country AVA. The wine has citrus aromas and minerality and a nice lemon note that will certainly be a pleasure for Texas warm winters!  The 2017 Malvasia Bianca was sourced from Nara Vineyards in the Texas High Plains AVA.  Barrel aged for six months, this wine has a grapefruit nose and tropical flavors that are a delight. Unlike most Malvasia Bianca wines, this one is not sweet, but quite delightful. The 2017 Roussanne was skin fermented for 17 months and looks reminiscent of a sherry in the glass and presents as such on the nose, with toasted nut notes and bright acidity.  Sourced from Nara Vineyards, this low alcohol Roussanne (10%) will be a great crowd pleaser and should pair nicely with cheese. You will notice that the Rosé and white wines are “cloudy”.  This is due to the unfiltered approach used for these more natural wines.  By no means does it distract from the aroma and taste. We think it makes them better! The red wines are equally pleasing. Mourvedre has been a great grape for Texas Red wines. There are two versions of his 2017 vintage, barrel aged and concrete aged. Both were sourced from Buena Suerte Vineyards in the Texas High Plains, yet each has a different flavor profile.  Both are equally well structured and packed with super rich flavors. The concrete version tends to express more of the natural fruit than the barrel aged.  The 2017 Tannat was also sourced from Nara Vineyards and is big, bold, opaque, and is incredibly smooth. It is hard to find a single varietal Tannat this excellent from abroad.  Finally, we were able to try a barrel aged Zinfandel from Nara Vineyards. This Zin was made in the nouveau style presenting bright fruit notes and is planned to be an annual release each fall.  The onsite winery is taking shape next to the outdoor covered patio and soon in-house winemaking will be occurring at the tasting room location.  We recommend you call and make an appointment for a tasting as it is well worth your valuable wine time. Tastings are currently by appointment and you can sit and hear directly from Henry. Crowson Wines is off to a great start and makes a fine addition to Johnson City. Henry’s goal is to make the best wines and we believe his creativity, passion, and attention to detail will help him be successful in this endeavor. He is passionate about his craft and we see him as a rising wine rock star in Texas. We look forward to following his journey and tasting more of his future wines as we believe there will be lots of great bottles in his future!

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